An Introduction to Automatic Watches
Automatic watches, or self-winding watches, are the ultimate form of traditional watch making excellence. Unlike a quartz watch that relies on a battery, an automatic watch gets its power from the motion of the wearer’s wrist! Automatic watches represent a mechanical work of art that blends beautifully with engineering, which is why collectors and enthusiasts love them.
Table of Contents
How They Work – Automatic Watches
The History of Automatic Movements
The Pros of an Automatic Watch
Popular Brands & Models – Automatic Watches
Maintenance and Care
Automatic and Manual and Quartz Watches – The Differences
Investment Value of Automatic Watches
Rather than spend a lot of extra time explaining the contents of this article, this is a detailed guide that will help you through your exploration of automatic watches. We hope you will enjoy reading it as much as we enjoyed putting it together!
How to Buy your First Automatic Watch
- The Mechanics of Automatic Watches
The automatic watch has a very clever mechanical system:
Rotor: a semi-circular weight that moves based on the motion of the arm.
Mainspring: stores the energy created from the momentum of the rotor.
Gear train: transfers the energy stored to create a timekeeping system.
Escapement: regulates the release of energy.
Balance wheel: oscillates in a consistent measure (typically, 28,800 bph).
Power Reserve – Most automatics will run for 38-72 hours once winded – and premium brands have offered models that can go 5-10 days before winding.
History of Automatic Movements:
1770s: Abraham-Louis Perrelet develops early self-winding pocket watches, but these are still powered by gravity.
1923: John Harwood patents the first wristwatch automatic mechanism.
1931: Rolex introduces the Perpetual rotor system – the basis of all automatic movements we know of today.
1948: Eterna develops the ball-bearing rotor, which is the base of the vast majority of automatic movements today.
1990s-Present: Today’s automatic movements include improved materials, such as silicon, to get improved accuracy and durability.
Advantages of Automatic Watches
✓ No battery is required – motivated by natural motion
✓ Quality craftsmanship – made of hundreds of hand-assembled parts
✓ Second hand movement – sweeps (vs. ticking)
✓ Lasts a long time – can be passed on for generations
✓ Investment – many models can increase in value over time
✓ Green – no battery waste
- Best Automatic Watch Brands and Models
Entry Level ($200-$1,000)
Orient Bambino
Seiko 5 Sports
Tissot PRX Powermatic 80
Mid-Range ($1,000-$5,000)
Hamilton Khaki Field Auto
Longines HydroConquest
Tag Heuer Carrera
High-End ($5,000-$50,000)
Rolex Submariner
Omega Speedmaster Professional
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso
Luxury ($50,000+)
Patek Philippe Nautilus
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony
5. Maintenance & Care Guide
🔧 Daily Use:
Manually wind if not worn for more than 2 days
Wear regularly to keep wound
Avoid strong magnetic fields
⏱ Service Schedule:
Basic check: 2-3 years
Full service: 5-7 years
Price: $200-$800 depending on complexity
💧 Water Resistance:
30m: Splash resistant
100m: Swimming safe
300m+: Professional diving
6. Automatic vs. Manual vs. Quartz
| Feature | Automatic | Manual Wind | Quartz |
|---|---|---|---|
| Power Source | Self-winding | Hand-wound | Battery |
| Accuracy | ±10 sec/day | ±15 sec/day | ±15 sec/month |
| Maintenance | 5-7 year service | 5-7 year service | Battery changes |
| Typical Price | $$$$ | $$$ | $ |
| Second Hand | Sweeping | Sweeping | Ticking |
7. Investment Potential
Some automatic watches have had astonishing price increases worth mentioning:
Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711: Discontinued (and now worth 2-3x retail price)
Rolex Daytona “Paul Newman”: $17.8M auction price record
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo: A consistent price increase over time
Factors Affecting Value:
✔ Rarity ✔ Brand heritage ✔ Condition ✔ Original papers
- Picking your first automatic watch
Find the right watch by considering the following:
Style (dress, dive, sports, etc.)
Size (case diameter: 36mm – 44mm)
Budget (from $200 to $500k+)
Movement (Swiss, Japanese or German)
Brand Reputation (established makers retain value better)
Best options for starter models include:
Seiko Presage (Japanese excellence)
Tissot Le Locle (Affordable Swiss)
Hamilton Jazzmaster (Versatile style)
Conclusion: The Enduring Appeal of Automatics
Automatic watches represent more than just timekeeping – they’re wearable art that connects us to centuries of horological tradition. Whether you’re drawn to the precision engineering, the aesthetic beauty, or the investment potential, there’s an automatic watch for every enthusiast.
Ready to start your automatic watch journey? Share your:
- Budget
- Wrist size
- Style preferences
- Desired features
